Carabiner Inspection and Retirement

Carabiner Types

Non-locking carabiners are used for primarily for climbing protection. They are not used on anchor systems, except where they are connected to a single anchor which forms a component of an anchor system, and the carabiner as well as the anchor are thereby backed up by other equipment. They are not used in belay systems or in abseiling. Occasionally snap-links are used on cowstails (particularly in caving), but this use is only safe if there are always two cowstails connected to the anchors. Otherwise a twist-lock carabiner should be used on one cowstail. Snap-links are also used for carrying gear, and occasionally for other uses such as on re-direction anchors in caving. Bent-gate snap-links are designed to be easy to clip the rope to. Therefore they are used as the lower carabiner on a quickdraw, and as the carabiner on other protection (camming devices, etc). Care must be taken not to twist quickdraws, as bent-gates are as easy to unclip as they are to clip. Plain-gate snap-links (straight-gates) are used on slings, protection, and at the top end of a quickdraw. Plain-gates may be used, with care, on anchors, if they are doubled and have the gates opposed. If quickdraws are used on bolt hangers, the same carabiner should always be at the rope end, because burrs which develop from contact with the hanger could damage the rope. Generally locking carabiners are used for belaying, abseiling, and anchor attachments. Screw-locks or triple-locks are used for belaying and abseiling. Twist-locks are excellent for cowstails, as they are fast to operate and are secure in this role. They are not ideal for belaying however because moving rope can easily twist the gate into an unlocked position.

Carabiner Care

If carabiners become wet, they should be dried before storage. Any identification markings should be superficial and not affect the function of the gate or hide important information. Keep carabiners away from heat and wash salt water off to avoid corrosion. If they become dirty, wash them in warm water (30-40 degrees).

Maintenance

Very little maintenance is required for carabiners. It may be desirable to lubricate the pin and spring sparingly with a silicone-based spray lubricant occasionally. Any excess should be wiped off.

Carabiner Inspection

During regular, scheduled inspections the following should be checked:

• The gate mechanism should operate freely
• The gate should close straight so that it cleanly engages
• The body of the carabiner should be free of cracks, marks and deep scratches
• There should be no corrosion evident
• The inside top corners of plain-gate carabiners should be checked carefully, as they may develop burrs by contact with bolt hangers
• Locking mechanisms should operate freely
• The sleeves of screw-lock carabiners should remain in the closed position without any free movement
• Gates should not be sharp. Most commonly seen on well used carabiners
• Excessive wear from ropes or hardware. Most common on quickdraws

Carabiner Retirement

The life of carabiners is detailed in the manufacturers instructions. If they are treated well, are not damaged, and their moving parts continue to function properly their lifespan can be to the maximum recommended. However, the possibility of invisible corrosion around the pins should be considered. If any of the defects listed above are found, the carabiner should be retired, unless the defect can be fixed by cleaning or lubrication. Triple-lock carabiners are prone to failure of the gate mechanisms, and must not be used if they do not close and lock properly. Any retired carabiners should be destroyed or distinctively marked.