Climbing Rope Inspection and Retirement

Climbing ropes and static ropes are extremely strong and are capable of holding a large number of short falls without major damage. On the other hand, each fall may cause some slight deterioration, and the number of falls that can be taken is finite. Care must be taken to check ropes before use and retired if necessary. Typical signs of damage can include, but are not limited to:

  • Sheath wear / abrasion
  • Glazing from excessive heat / friction
  • Damage from UV / Chemicals / Dirt
  • Unusually soft or stiff (indicating core damage)

If you notice that a rope is notably different in feel, appearance, etc. than it originally was then it should be assessed to see the cause and severity of the change. Similarly, sections that are different than other areas on the same rope usually indicate actuate damage. Not all damage requires ropes to be retired but it can be hard to tell when it does require retirement. A general rule of thumb is that if you feel uneasy about using any equipment, you should not use it.

Rope Care

Ropes should be occasionally cleaned when required, but doing so safely is important.

Washing ropes:

They can be washed, either by hand, or by using a tubular rope washer, or in a front-loading washing machine on a gentle cycle (the agitator in a top-loading machine can cause abrasion). Soaps specifically designed for use on ropes are the best option. Other detergents can be used but only if they are mild, contain no harmful chemicals (like alkalis, bleaches, etc.), and leave no residue afterward. If a machine is being used, it is a good idea to run a rinse cycle before washing your rope to help remove chemicals from previous washes. 

Drying Ropes: 

Running the wet rope through your hands to remove as much water as possible can greatly shorten drying time. The rope should be left to dry away from direct heat sources, UV / sunlight, and have good air circulation. Coiling, chaining, or piling your rope can cause drying to taker longer and potentially lead to mold/mildew forming if left for long periods of time.

 

Rope Inspection

At the required inspection interval the rope should examined by passing it through the hands meter by meter and checking for the following:

  • Severe blackening caused by dirt, excessive falls, or heat.
  • Glazing of the sheath caused by the fibers being melted.
  • Sheath damage of the rope, caused by excessive falls or sharp edges.
  • Chemical or UV damage
  • Excessive sheath slippage, leading to the sheath bunching at the end.
  • Soft spots, caused by changes to the internal structure of the core, probably arising from a severe fall;
  • Cutting of sheath fibers due to sharp edges, stone-fall, crampon points, or burrs on metal equipment;
  • Lumps, flattening or otherwise unusually shape that indicate damage to the core or inner sheath.
  • Visible core under the sheath / cuts.

Climbing Rope Retirement

Retirement of the rope should be considered if any of the problems above are found.

Rope Lifespan: 

Typically textiles used for safety have a maximum lifespan of 10 years by default. Manufacturers may have shorter or longer maximum lifespans for their products. Most equipment should be retired before the maximum if they are in use. Heavy use could mean a rope is retired after only a few years, months, or even after a single use where a serious event occurred. If the history of equipment is unknown it should not be used.