Guidebooks
Britten Crags
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Fifty sport climbs 15-30 metres long, grade 18-24.
Compiled by Lindsay Main, as at 18 May 2002.
Please send comments and additions to Lindsay Main
Location
The crag is about 100 metres south of Faulty Towers overlooking Purau Valley, near the crest of the spur running down to Diamond Harbour from Mt Herbert.
Ownership
The owner is Mr Davison of Bay View Road, Diamond Harbour. Phone 329 4809.
Approach routes
Drive through Diamond Harbour and just past the road down to the shops and jetty turn right on to Waipapa Ave. Follow this up the hill to the end, where Bayview Road starts. Park at the entrance to the farm (marked "Chalfont") clear of the road and walk up the drive past the hedge, and follow the track up the spur past the hayshed and trees. Where high-tension power lines cross the track, sidle along the hill about 50 metres (above the descending 4WD track) and pick up a sheep track descending below a small cliff, following a water pipe.
The track soon becomes a benched track ("The Highway") which provides fast going along the hillside below the crag, which is unmistakable (although since the removal of the goats the gorge may be near impregnable). Ascend from the benched track to the cliff using one of the goat tracks. About 40 minutes walk from the farm-house.
Access restrictions
Closed for lambing from mid-August to October. The farmer must be telephoned for permission the previous day.
Climate
The cliff gets full sun until early afternoon, and is shaded thereafter. The aspect varies a little so extra use can be made of sun or shade as desired. It is climbable year-round, but suits moderate weather - otherwise it can be too hot in the morning or too cold in the afternoon. There is good shelter from nor-west winds, and some shelter from southerlies. It is exposed to nor-easters. As the crag is clean it dries fast after rain.
Orientation
From the left the first orange wall, with overhangs across the base, is Animal House. 31 Degrees takes a line through the crest of the overhangs. The corner-crack on the right is New Horizons. The narrow wall to the right is Groove Wall, with The Groove taking the groove on the left.
To the right is Gold Wall, where Premature Ageing starts up an overhanging black feature. The major corner is Ancient Gallery, with The Buttress routes just to the right. Next up is Caboose Wall, occupying the area between the two main buttresses of the cliff. Nine Pins is the direct corner line on the left of the wall.
Climbing
Great technical climbing on mostly solid rock, similar to the Fantasy Factory, though there are fewer cracks and most routes use just bolts for protection. The crag has a style of its own which takes some getting used to. The side-pull is an essential technique, and some climbs have few positive holds. Jugs, when found, are amazingly positive.
There are a few wobbly holds on some routes and at least one of these is vital hold. Sometimes though, these can't be removed because they are keyed into a crack. Though considerable effort has gone into cleaning, there are likely to be a few loose holds. Along the base of the crag there are some flaky sections which obviously should be handled with greater care. Generally the cliff is free of the lichen which plagues most volcanic Christchurch cliffs.
The bolts used to date have been almost all 10mm stainless steel expansion bolts, fitted with Fixe hangers. Paired bolts with Fixe ring hangers are used at anchor stations. Most anchor stations serve two routes. Some are positioned to allow access from the top of the cliff, should this be desired for top-roping. With only two naturally protected routes so far, there is little joy for trad climbers.
Descent routes
All routes except Ancient Gallery, A Friend In Low Places, and the two right-most routes have anchor chains (usually shared with another route).
Climbing history
The cliff was visited in the 70s when Faulty Towers was found, but little scope was seen for climbs at the time. The obvious crack Ancient Gallery was climbed twice around 1990, with the first ascent believed to have gone to Athol Whimp. Other climbers knew of the crag and it is listed in both editions of Canterbury Rock. Ton Snelder visited in the early 90s, but was injured by a rock-fall while approaching down a gully. The significance of the number 118 painted at the bottom of Animal House is not known, but it has been there for over 20 years.
Finally in 1999 Marcus Thomas and Lindsay Main decided that the time had come and invested heavily in a large supply of bolts. They started development at the left side of the cliff purely because the first visit was on a very hot day and the overhangs there offered the only shade. The first route, New Horizons, was slightly shaded and also had natural protection, thus giving access to the top of the cliff. Seven sport routes were soon done on Animal House, the first two being Solar Power and Heatstroke.
The team them moved steadily rightward along the wall, intending to establish a spread of routes across the cliff. Two routes were added on Groove Wall, then four good quality routes were done on Gold Wall. In May The Central Buttress presented itself as the obvious objective, and Aviation and Outer Space were established after lengthy preparation sessions. Then came several routes on the Caboose Wall, all over 25 metres long.
Joe Arts was the first new player to join the team, and he filled in some routes as well as making the first contribution on Caboose Wall. At the end of July the team expanded to include Tony Burnell and Richard Kimberley, and the remaining areas were quickly filled in.
The routes are described from left to right. If a climb is believed to be hard for the grade, it may be given a "+", whereas a soft touch may have a "-"after the grade.
The grey wall to the left of the large orange overhangs.
Any Questions? 21
Climbs the central slab, starting on the right below the overhanging arete, and move left-ward on to the slab. Up past three bolts to the snall roof and climb the crack with small cams. Dave Shotwell, 1999.
Named for the inclination of goats to shelter under the overhangs in bad weather. This is a high-quality wall with several top routes, though the grey rock at the start of those on the left is very flaky. All the routes end at or near abseil rings. If you can tolerate the smell, the overhangs give shelter from rain and shade from sun. There are four sets of bolt anchors.
Golden Streak 22+
Start on grey rock at the left end of the ledge and pull onto the rib with a protruding hold. Move left and pull through a bulge (hard clip) to the upper wall (crux). Exit right of a large loose block. Four bolts. Lindsay Main, 1999.
Gold Power 23
Hard start, then through the highest part of the roof on large spaced holds. Five bolts, including the first and last of Golden Streak. A large cam can be placed above the first bolt. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
** 31 Degrees 21+
Start at the small rib. Climb the wall with hard moves on small holds and pull through the roof on huge jugs. Shares the last bolt of Goats' Shit Soup. Four bolts. Anchors are to the right. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
* Goats' Shit Soup 22-
More appetising than the name suggests. Start on flaky grey rock in a right-facing corner and balance on to the wall, then pull through the roof on small positive holds, and up the wall. Move left at the fourth bolt to finish up the groove. Anchors are to the right. Lindsay Main, 1999.
* Prisoners Of The Sun 22
Hard start to pull rightward past the first bolt, then sustained climbing with balancy moves directly up the wall to a steep finish. Five bolts. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Solar Power 22
Powerful moves through the roof, then on up the wall to the last of three bolts. Follow the ramp rightward (wire placement) to the anchor bolts. Great rock. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
*** Heatstroke 21
Hard pulling on big holds directly over the roof to a high first bolt; then up and right to a large hold with excellent technical moves to the upper slab. Three bolts and a large wire near the top. Lindsay Main, 1999.
New Horizons 19-
Start in the corner at the right end of the wall and pull round leftward to the crack (awkward); follow this to the top. Step left to the anchor chains. Entirely natural protection. Lindsay Main, 1999.
Past the steep gully is this narrow wall with a small vegetated ledge three metres up. There is one set of anchor rings.
The Groove 19+
Clamber up to the vegetated ledge and climb the wall past two bolts (beware a loose hold) to join a shallow groove line on the left. From the top of the groove move slightly right to a hidden bolt and bridge up (crux) to good flat holds. Four fairly spaced bolts. Lindsay Main, 1999.
Feeling Lucky Punk? 23+
Start up The Groove and move right from the first bolt to a steep line through a bulge, with very thin climbing on the upper headwall. Five bolts and an optional small cam after the second bolt. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
McLiable 17
A groove line separating Groove Wall and Rib Wall. One of the easiest climbs on the crag, well protected with five bolts. There are anchor chains about six metres below the top of the cliff. Galvanised bolts and links. Joe Arts, 1999.
This wall has several distinctive protruding ribs just above the ground, with a bulge and smooth slabs above. The routes finish below the top of the cliff and can be abseiled with one rope.
Dolittle 20
Start at the prominent rib on the left of the wall and pull up on small holds past the first bolt. Continue up the groove, moving right on to the wall at the fourth bolt. Run-out on good holds to the scrubby ledge to the right, with anchor bolts just above. Four bolts. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
* The Path To Enlightenment 20+
Start up the groove with a thin rib at the right and bridge to good holds, then small holds on the bulge to reach great jugs above. From the ledge at the third bolt move right and up a little, then back left to the fourth bolt and run it out on easy ground to anchor rings slightly to the left above the scrubby ledge. Four bolts. Lindsay Main, 1999.
McGenetically Engineered 20-
Start on the left of the very prominent ear-like rib on the right of the wall and pull on to the ledge. Place medium to large cams in flared cracks and move up to the crux at the fourth bolt. Continue straight up to the last bolt and traverse right to the anchor rings. Six bolts - the first and last have chain links. Joe Arts, 1999.
The routes on this wall are about 20 metres long and finish at abseil stations about eight metres below the top of the cliff.
* Premature Ageing 22-
About two metres right of the prominent protruding rib, up an overhanging black pillar. Start in a clean-cut corner with a flake hold to the left and bridge to the bulge. Undercling on the knobbly rock and use a movable but secure hold in a crack for the left hand to move up the bulge past the second bolt. Balance up to the third bolt and bridge past to easier climbing to the anchors about ten metres below the top. Five bolts. Lindsay Main, 1999.
*** Experimental Jetset 21+
Start two metres right to the ledge, then climb through the bulge about a metre left of the second bolt. At the third bolt a long reach rightward gives a good hold, followed by bridging through the next bulge and then easier climbing to the anchors. Six bolts. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
* Radical Fingers 21-
Climb the previous route to the ledge and clip the second bolt. Move right about two metres and clip another bolt, then unclip the previous one. Directly up to a bulge, then easier to the anchors. Six/seven bolts. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
* Pillar Pillage 21-
Takes a small but obvious pillar in the middle of the wall above a tussock. Climb easy unprotected ground (easier to the right) past ledges to a high first bolt and move up to the base of the pillar with a large flat hold on the left. Use edges and holds on both sides to climb the pillar directly. Then a good edge on the left deals with the final steepness on the rib at the top. Five bolts. Lindsay Main, 1999.
** Zen Arcade 22+
A direct route up the slightly bulgy orange wall. Starts in a groove with a low bolt to the ledge, then up the wall on small holds, moving slightly left at the top to the anchor rings. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Ancient Gallery 16
Major corner with a wide crack veering left at the top. The only route done before wholesale development of the crag started in 1999. Good climbing with a mixed rack of gear. Anchor to a small tree below the small cliff above. Athol Whimp, 1990.
This is the dominant feature of the crag - a towering prow, overhanging at the bottom and thirty metres high. There are anchor rings and a good stance right at the top on the crest of The Buttress which serve the next four routes.
Aviation 22-
Takes a corner line a few metres left of the main buttress. Scramble to the ledge and clip the first bolt, then haul up the undercut corner (crux) and step right to a ledge, then climb the left of two short corners above, then trending right to easier ground. Clip a bolt on the route to the right with a sling, and climb the groove past the last bolt to the anchor rings at the top of the buttress. Run-out at the top, but it's quite easy if you step right on to the prow. Eight bolts. Note: there is a dangerously loose hold near the first bolt. Lindsay Main, 1999.
* Outer Space 23-
An impressive line through the overhangs just left of the crest. Clip the first bolt and jump for a big pocket; up over some crumbly stuff to the main roof. Pull up on good spaced holds and pockets, moving left to the arete to gain the big ledge. Then up the bottomless corner and move right to a groove (watch for rope drag on the arete - use long quickdraws or two ropes). Awkward moves eventually lead to easier climbing on the slab, with a final technical section up the arete to the anchor bolts. Ten bolts. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Eternal Optimism 25
Direct line right up the prow of the main buttress, through some good-sized roofs. Ten bolts. Richard Kimberley, 1999.
Chronic Fatigue 22-
Climb a scaly lower corner and move right past the first bolt to a ledge, then up the overhanging left-facing corner to a rest. Continue up the wall, moving left past the fifth bolt to black rock in the corner. Continue to the top (with a tricky move at the top) and cross the ledge leftward to the anchors. Nine bolts. Lindsay Main, 1999.
A strongly featured wall between the two buttresses, with routes about 28 metres long. Most finish at the large ledge running across just below the top of the cliff, which has been fitted with anchor bolts on the overhanging wall above. Anchor using the bolts nearest to the route. The descent route is on the right (north) side of the ledge where there is a pair of ring hangers. A 15 metre abseil gets you to a spacious ledge halfway down the cliff, from where another pair of ring anchors gives access to the ground.
* Nine Pins 21+
Technical start with a layback move to the ledge, then step right and pull through the overhang moving left. Continue up to the corner, with tricky moves in the smooth black section near the top. Step right on to the main ledge and anchor at two separated bolts. Nine bolts. Lindsay Main, 1999.
Lindsay's project
Up the blunt bulging prow. Clip the first bolt of Nine Pins and move right on to the ledge. A technical sequence leads from right to left past two bolts to a rest, then up the bulge on small holds, moving right and then left past three bolts to easier ground and then the top. Ten bolts.
The Plague 22
Just right of a broad arete. Climb to the ledge and climb up a shallow groove left of the first bolt to steep moves with small on a bulge at the fourth bolt (crux) , followed by a rest above. Move left to another groove to finish, with chains just below the main ledge. Eight bolts. Joe Arts. 1999.
Itchy And Scratchy 22
Starts just to the right of The Plague but moves right to another groove, finishing just left of the prominent arete. About eight bolts. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
** Half A Flea 18
Climb the obvious groove with the crux move rightward a few metres up, and step right to finish at the halfway ledge after the fifth bolt. Joe Arts, 1999.
Motion Sickness 23-
Start just right on move left from the wall below the rounded black roof to a steep rib. From the third bolt step right and climb the right-facing corner, then step on to the small wall and climb to the ledge. Five bolts. Lindsay Main, 2000.
Lindsay's project
Climb the flaky wall below the black roof and pull through the roof on the right. Up past a big horn at the third bolt, climb the arete, and step around into the corner to join the previous route.
Instant Gratification 22-
Overhanging shallow groove with the crux moves past the second bolt to a rest at the third bolt, then hand traverse left to the chimney. Tricky arm-bars to finish at the abseil ledge. Four bolts. Lindsay Main, 1999.
The right-hand of the crag's two 30 metre buttresses is distinguished by a detached pillar near the top, left of the prow. There are two sets of anchor rings. Access to the top of the crag is possible from the right side with a little scrub-bashing.
Death Rattle Gulch 21
A long line of bolts up the featureless wall on the side of the Needle Buttress. Start up a steep groove, step left to rest at the small roof, and step right on to the headwall. Climb the wall directly to the anchors. Deviating to the right and climbing the crack reduces the grade to about 19. Ten bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
** Thirty Minute Rock Slide 25
The thirty metre arete terminating in The Needle. Start left of the arete and climb directly to the small roof; then rightward to the arete (crux). Up the arete to the crack and jam to a precarious standing position on the top of the Needle. Anchor bolts are just above. Five bolts (take a sling for clipping a nearby one on the previous route) and a couple of biggish cams. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Astrocrab 21/22
Obvious corner line right of the buttress. Committing moves through a bulge and up the obvious corner, moving right at the top, which can be protected by a #2 Friend. Also nine or ten bolts. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Recycled Recreation 24
Climb to the ledge at four metres and move up the right side of the roof. Continue slightly right before going back left to gain a series of corners above. Climb the blank corners and the headwall above to a hanging belay. Six bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Urban Trauma 24
Starts up the corner on the right side of the wall. At the second bolt move left onto the steep wall and climb directly up to a series of steeper grooves. Above this is a ledge - move left and up to the anchors for Recycled Recreation. Take care with rope drag on the finish. Six bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
This lower area to the right, about 20 metres high, harbours some excellent climbs.
Down The Drain 22/23
Starts in a small right-facing corner, beside a brown arete, at the left side of the wall. Straight up the short steep water-worn wall, just above the third bolt and before you get into the easy angled, vegetated rock on the left make a committing move right, across and into the wide, shallow groove (crux). Climb the easier corners to the top. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
The Bone People 21
Starts in a small right-facing corner on grey rock and swing left on to the brown arete. From the arete move right to gain a groove, and up to a steeper exit (crux). Six or seven bolts. Joe Arts, 1999.
Fallen Arches 23
Follows the leftward trending arch, make the best of the holds on the arch and the wall on its left, where the arch peters out move directly up the head wall and finally over the top to anchors. Tony Burnell, 1999.
* Scorpion 22
The prominent easy-looking corner. Climb the corner using crack techiques and the left wall until it steepens at the fourth bolt. Move left slightly and bridge wide to reach the fifth bolt (very committing). Move right to gain the exit groove to top out. Five bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
*** Quality Street 21
One of the best routes at the crag. Climbs a water worn slightly curving groove. At the top of the groove move up and then slightly left on an obvious staircase. Make an awkward move up the steepening wall to good holds with steeper face climbing to finish. At the top move right to a belay bolt in the side of a large block. There is a double bolt anchor on the other side of the block. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Dawn's Coming In 22
Arete with a small groove in it. Climb the groove and mantle the ledge at half height. Continue with easier climbing to the top. The second bolt was committing to clip, until an extra bolt was added. Ring bolt anchors at the top. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Wall Street Crash 24
Strating in the prominent corner, trend quickly left on to the wall, then thin moves straight up to the roof. Undercling slightly left to jugs, then big moves up the wall to a small ledge and rest. At the last bolt head left to join the top of Dawn's Coming In. Nine bolts. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Southerly Bluster 22
Starts below the left-facing corner and climb the initial wall into the corner. Bridge off the apparently detached pinnacle and swing onto the arete. Climb straight up and get a no hands rest on the right. Move up to the left end of the roof on Blinkers and from the downward pointing fangs move continue up and slightly left to an obvious flat topped hold, stand on this and continue more easily to the top. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Blinkers 23
Climb the undercut left facing corner towards a pedestal on the right. Before reaching the pedestal a hold on the right wall enables you to swing out onto the steep black face, good holds after a couple of moves. Continue up slabbier walls and ledges until you reach some downward pointing flakes in a small roof/overlap. From the undercuts move up awkwardly and slightly right into a shallow open groove which leads to the top. At the final bolt walk leftward across the ledge to the double bolt anchor. Tony Burnell, 1999.
A Friend In Low Places 18
Start in a corner on left of a bush with a cam placement in a slot to protect the first moves. Move left past the first bolt to easy climbing trending left following the weakness, then back right at the fifth bolt with some great bridging moves to surmount the overhang. Six bolts, but no anchors - move several metres left to double rings at the top of Southerly Bluster. Joe Arts, 1999.
The Sword Of Damocles 19
The wider, right-hand of two cracks through the overhangs at the right edge of the cliff. Awkward through the first overhang to get established, then good bridging through to the easy top cracks. Two bolts and natural protection. Belay wherever, and abseil from the rings of Southerly Bluster. Joe Arts, 2000.
The next route is in the middle of the steep gully on a small black wall.
Max Black 21
Straight up a the black wall on spaced holds past two bolts. Move slightly right after the second bolt and belay from blocks and trees at the top. Abseil from the tree, or descend ledges to the right of the climb. Marcus Thomas, 1999.
This is the smaller detached cliff past the gully.
* ZM Sucks 20
From the grassy base climb the three metre corner to the ledge, clip the bolt (with chain links) on the start of the arete and climb on to it from the left and up. The third bolt is somewhat hidden to the left. Follow the bolts rightward to a steep and strenuous finish. Seven bolts, anchor ring shared with Classic Rock. Joe Arts, 1999.
** Classic Rock 20/21
Superb climbing up the steep tan coloured wall about two hundred yards along the ledge with a nice grassy base to relax on. Climb straight up the wall to the anchors. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Spartan 20
Starts in the short corner just right of Classic Rock. Awkward moves up the corner, then move right to the arete and the second bolt. Climb the arete to a third bolt (hidden) at the left end of the large roof. Straight up past the last bolt to a single bolt lower off. Four spaced bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
* Gladiator 18
From the grassy ledge start up an easy corner to a small overhang and pull through past a bolt just right of the arete. Up past some small overlaps with cam protection to an alcove below the overhang, clip a bolt and finish directly clipping the last two bolts of Grant's route. Cam anchors. Joe Arts, 1999.
The Fat Lady Sings 20
Up past two grassy ledges to an indistinct rib with natural protection and easy climbing to the first bolt on an arete. Then committing moves under the overhang to reach the second bolt and hard pulling to surmount the overhang. Three bolts, cam anchors. Grant Piper, 1999.