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Cord specifications
Sewn prusik slings
Aspiring Enterprises sources accessory cords from our dynamic rope
supplier, the French manufacturer Millet (pronounced "Mi-yay"). Millet manufactures
a complete range of cords from 2 mm to 8 mm size, all complying with the
European standard EN 564. These are high-quality cords which, when formed into loops,
provide amazingly strong slings.
Millet accessory cords are attractive, high quality cords suitable for every purpose, in a range of sizes from 2 mm to 8 mm. All are available on convenient 50 metre spools, or can be cut to length to suit customer requirements.
| ACCESSORY CORD SIZES | |||
| Size | Rating | Spool | Uses |
| 2 mm |
0.8 kN |
50 metre |
Lightweight cord |
| 3 mm | 1.8 kN | 50 metre | Tent guys, draw-cords |
| 4 mm | 3.9 kN | 50 metre | Boot laces, utility cord |
| 5 mm | 6.6 kN | 50 metre | Lightweight prusik slings |
| 6 mm | 8.2 kN | 50 metre | Prusik slings, nut slings, purcell prusiks, emergency rope |
| 7 mm | 10.5 kN | 50 metre | Nut slings, haul rope, cordelettes |
| 8 mm | 15.1 kN | 50 metre | Tandem belay slings, emergency rope, Aztek rope, jigger cord. |
Note: 1 kN = 102 kg
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We supply sewn prusik slings in a wide variety of sizes and lengths,
for a multitude of purposes, from back-up slings for abseiling to belay slings
for rescue teams, using the cord sizes from 5 mm to 8 mm.
Sewn cord slings give test strengths which are about 50-70 % higher than
the rating of the cord itself. This means that even a 5 mm cord sling
has a strength of over a tonne!
The strength in use will normally be less than the test strength. In tests
of prusik slings on a rope, the sling usually breaks at the prusik knot.
For example, in one test of a 6 mm cord tied on an 11 mm rope with a three-wrap
prusik knot, the cord broke at the knot at 12.6 kN - below the sling strength
rating, but well above the cord rating. Test results vary considerably depending on the test parameters.
The strength and failure mode depend on the cord size, rope size, and the
type of knot. Some knots slip more than others - particularly the French
prusik. For example, in one test a 5 mm cord on a 10.5 mm rope slipped when tied with
a French prusik, the maximum load depending on the number of coils of the
knot. With three coils, the knot slipped at 2.5 kN, with four coils at 3.3
kN, and with five coils at 9.7 kN. Neither the sling nor the rope suffered serious damage.
Specifications
| Size | Cord rating | Sling rating |
| 5 mm | 6.6 kN | 10 kN |
| 6 mm | 8.2 kN | 14 kN |
| 7 mm | 10.5 kN | 18 kN |
| 8 mm | 15.1 kN | 22 kN |
Sewn cord sling range
We supply a range of lengths to suit different applications in climbing
and rescue. Generally 5 mm and 6 mm cords are used in climbing, and 6 mm
and 8 mm cords in rescue.
| 5 mm | Back-up prusik | 50cm |
| 6 mm | Back-up prusik | 50cm |
| 6 mm | Short prusik | 70cm |
| 6 mm | Short prusik | 80cm |
| 6 mm | Short purcell | 110cm |
| 6 mm | Long prusik | 120cm |
| 6 mm | Long prusik | 130cm |
| 6 mm | Long purcell | 170cm |
| 7 mm | Short tandem | 40cm |
| 7 mm | Long tandem | 50cm |
| 7 mm | Stretcher -short | 85cm |
| 7 mm | Stretcher -long | 170cm |
| 7 mm | Cordelette | 350cm |
| 8 mm | Short tandem | 40cm |
| 8 mm | Long tandem | 55cm |
Two different lengths are available for the prusik slings, to allow for varying heights and perferences among different people.
Applications
The intended applications for the various slings are shown below.
Back-up sling: (5mm or 6 mm) Used in climbing as a back-up when abseiling, but can be useful in all sorts of emergency situations. This
length is short enough to be tied with a French prusik below the abseil device,
or tied above the abseil device and connected with a cowstail or daisychain.
If a longer back-up sling is preferred, the harness prusik can be used in this
role instead.
Short prusik: (6 mm) This is the sling used to connect to
the harness when prusiking a rope. The usual knots are standard or triple
prusik, or klemheist knot. Two lengths are available.
Long prusik: (6 mm) This is attached to the rope using
one of the usual knots, and supports the legs when prusiking. Two lengths
are available.
Short purcell: (6 mm) Purcell prusiks are a prusik-on-a-prusik
- an adjustable prusik sling which is used in two differerent lengths by
rescue teams for personal security, as well as for an adjustable prusik.
Long purcell: (6 mm) This is the longer brother of the short purcell.
Short and long tandem: (7 mm or 8 mm) These are used as a set of
short and long for belaying a resue load. The tandem prusik system has been
found to be one of the simplest and most reliable belay methods for
heavy loads.
Stretcher slings: (7 mm) These are used as a set of short and long to provide varaible rigging with a rescue stretcher.
Cordelette: (7 mm) A long sling used in climbing for equalising the load on several anchors.
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Copyright Aspiring Enterprises, revised 3 July, 2005.
Material from this page may be reproduced, providing the source is acknowledged.