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About 230 short rock climbs, mostly protected with bolts.
Compiled by Lindsay Main, updated 16 August, 2003.
Please send comments and additions to Lindsay Main
Just after you scramble down the rock step on the approach track and immediately before you round the corner to The Zoo, there are bargains to be had by turning to the right instead of following the usual track southward.
Taco Belle 21
Start near the left end of the cliff in the chimney. Squirm up and around onto the face to join Mexican Wave. Richard Kimberley, 2003.
Mexican Wave 21
Immediately right of Taco Belle. Inexpensive but out of reach for some. Don't just wave, jump. Three bolts. Stu Allan, 2003.
Trev's Emporium 23
Start halfway along the cliff. Hold the glued on block, think of the Queen, and reach for the pock. Real nice moves. Three bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2003.
Red Shed 21/22
Step off the block to the right of Trev's Emporium. Exit slightly left. Three bolts, crumbly. Richard Kimberley, 2003.
This is the first cliff reached after climbing down the rocky step in the track and rounding the corner. For some climbs anchors may be hard to find and are sometimes well back from the cliff edge. There is one set of bolt anchors (above Transmogrification). For the first few routes anchor to a large boulder. Trad routes in particular are likely to be a little loose.
Pigs In Muck 16
On the small face, following intermittent cracks, then scramble up the arete rightward to the anchor boulder. Good protection. Lindsay Main, 2000.
Black Sheep 13
Narrow chimney and wide leaning crack beside the arête. Daryll Thomson, 1973.
Chicken Run 19
Start a metre right of the wide crack and boulder up the face. Place protection and make the crux move past a smooth section on to the upper face and an easy finish. Mostly good protection. Lindsay Main, 2000.
Big Boar 18
Thin crack a metre right, through lichenous rock. Only hard in the first few metres. Protection from cams and wires. Anchor to a large boulder. Joe Arts, 2000.
Happy Landings 22
Unprotected start directly over the small triangular roof at two metres and on to the wall, then cruise up using the upper two bolts of Yellow Splendour. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Yellow Splendour 17
The first bolted route. Start just left of Kingfisher and boulder up to the first bolt on small holds, then more positive moves leftward to the second bolt, and finish slightly right up the left side of the arete. Three bolts. Joe Arts, 2000.
* Kingfisher 17
Prominent corner with a roof halfway up which is passed on the right; then move slightly right to exit. A pleasant route with good jugs and adequate protection. Anchor at the large boulder. Neil Sloan, 1993.
Gorilla At Large 21
The wall and arete right of Kingfisher. Start as for Kingfisher and move right on to the slab below the overhang. Clip the bolt and turn the roof using holds to the right. Climb the arete above past another bolt and good natural protection. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Where's My Gorilla? 19
Start as for the previous route, but at the first bolt traverse right past a good wire placement and gain the slabby undercut wall. Move up on good holds past another bolt and wire until holds lead left and up to the top. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Wine And Beer It 16
A few metres right of Kingfisher is a broken corner with a roof two metres up. Start on the right of the roof and traverse left under the bulge (crux), then pull through the bulge and climb the crack following the grass, tending left at the top. Neil Sloan, 1993.
Ringing The Change 19
Start on the right side of the corner and climb the slabby wall to the overlap (cam in groove on right), move up and left into the subsidiary groove, and follow this to the roof. Bridge up and over the roof to the second bolt. Continue straight up the steep head wall to finish at the same point as Transmogrification. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Transmogrification 20
Climbs the centre of the prominent wall capped by an overhang. Natural protection at the small overlap, then up to the first bolt, left past the second bolt and exit left on good holds. Anchor bolts in a boulder up a bit. Neil Sloan, 1993.
The Quiet Earth 21
A dodgy proposition. Start up the steepening wall a metre left of the corner, move slightly left at the bulge, and finish at the top crack. Minimal natural protection, very loose. Bill McLeod, 1992.
Rabid 15
A small right-facing corner behind a bush. Good protection. F.A. unknown.
Rockadile 15
Nice steep thin crack a metre right. Well protected and good climbing. Neil Sloan, 1993.
Mount Pheasant Plucker 17
Three metres right of Rabid is a wall with an incipient crack starting halfway up. Good climbing on positive holds, and adequate protection. Calum Hudson, 1995.
Call Of Duty 11
A few metres right among the bush lawyer is this soloed route up a crack leading to a broken wall. Dirty and loose, no anchors. Lindsay Main, 1974.
Midget 16
The broad arete. Good wires low down lead to moves on rounded holds and poor protection. Not a sport climb. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
* Micro 12
Around the arête is this short right-facing corner-crack. Having good climbing with plenty of protection, this route is well suited to beginners. Cam anchors. Lindsay Main, 1981.
Rockweiller 19
A short wall two metres right, with a crack leading leftward. Use it for protection initially and then place a wire in the crack to the right near the arête. Loose rock adds to the excitement, though the gear is OK. At this grade finish up the wall directly. (It's easier if you move right to the arête). Neil Sloan, 1993.
M.A.D. Goes Ape 18
Around the arête is a wide crack to the left of the shrubbery. Clip the bolt near the arête, then move slightly right toward the second bolt and straight up to the top. Cam anchors. Neil Sloan, 1993.
The next routes are to the right of a bushy gully which can be descended.
The Lonely Sea And The Sky 18
Short wall to the right of the descent gully, about two metres left of the arête. Being a soloed route, it probably has no protection. Lindsay Main, 1980.
Is The Pope A Catholic? 19
On the arête at the edge of the gully. Boulder to the bolt with chain links on small holds and climb past to easier ground with wire protection. Move left into the scoop, then back right to finish at the next route's anchor rings. Lindsay Main, 2000.
** Scott Free 22
Start just right of the arête and about five metres left of the fence. Climb over the initial roof, then up the wall to finish slightly right into a left-facing corner. The top bolt is hidden above the bulge. Four bolts and anchor rings. Tony Burnell, 2000.
** Friends In High Places 23
An obvious right-leaning crack about five metres left of the fence, by a seepage. Awkward moves off the ground lead up to the first roof. Over the roof into the groove above and up to the second roof. Move out right to the arête and climb the crack above to the chockstone. Exit up steep grass to a two ring anchor. Natural protection. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Un-named 23
The next groove. A hard start leads to easy climbing. Andy Cockburn, 2000.
* Spare Rib 23
Starts just left of the old fence line. From the left, boulder up the wall to the first bolt. Climb through the roofs using the arête on the right and pull onto the head wall to a rest. Move right along the break and climb the exposed arête. Finish up easy rock to a single bolt well back from the edge. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Spirit Of Free Enterprise 25
About one metre right of the fence, through a series of roofs. Start below and right of the first bolt, move up to good holds (awkward), then steep climbing past the second and third bolts leads to a long reach to pass the third roof, thus gaining a standing position in a left-facing capped corner at the fourth bolt. Move left to the rib and finish up easy ground to a single bolt anchor. Five bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
** Spirit Of Adventure 24
Starts about two metres right of the fence and climbs a series of roofs. Start below and left of the first bolt and gain a standing position on the blunt rib, then move up the steep groove on poor holds (awkward). Climb under the roof to the lip, then up the final groove over a loose block to easy climbing and the anchor above. Five bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Whacked Up 18
Climb Rough Justice to the roof, place a wire, and move left under the roof past two bolts to the arete. Easy climbing with cams to the anchor. Marcus Thomas, 2003.
** Rough Justice 17
Sidles the roof seven metres right of the fence. Start just right of the bottomless corner and climb the wall past a bolt to the corner; then move rightward under the huge roof. Climb through the notch at the edge of the roof and straight up the overhanging wall above with good natural protection to anchor rings. Lindsay Main, 1973.
Tough Justice 21
Climb through a small roof on the right side of the wall and up the wall to a ledge. Continue easily to finish as for Rough Justice with one or two cams. Three bolts. Lindsay Main, 2002.
Ride My Face 18
Start at the left side of a vegetated corner. Climb past the bolt (crux) and place a wire in a crack on the left, then up the middle of the face to a small niche with wire and cam. From the ledge pull through the overhang (wires), finishing just right of Rough Justice. Calum Hudson, 1997.
Kerry's Climb 21
Bulging prow right of the gully, with hard pulling on small holds past the first bolt to a large jug. Climb left of the second bolt and then up the arete right of the third. Join the top of Chicane Licken, where a wire may provide reassurance for the finish. Four bolts. Dave Shotwell, 2000.
* Chicane Licken 18
Just right. Traverse right under the overhang; then place wires and move up to the bolt with crux moves leftward and up to a ledge. Finish up the corner. Anchor at the Kerry's Climb bolts. Calum Hudson, 1997.
In You Endo 17
Start in the centre of the wall beside a bush, where a thin crack curves up to a round pod. Direct to the pod (place wires), then nice moves into the round pod. Move left onto the wall, through a small roof past a hidden fixed piton, then step left onto a ledge, and climb the final headwall with one bolt. Anchor with cams and/or ring hangers just left. Calum Hudson, 1997.
* Hippocratic Oaf 17
Start beside a bush just right of In You Endo, then right to a bolt on the edge of a scoop. Move back left under the roof to the right edge of the round pod, then straight up the groove past another bolt. Easy finish with natural protection. Anchor at a large boulder or the next route's ring hangers. Calum Hudson, 1997.
The Vertical Limit 20
From the right edge of the bush move up and clip the first bolt, step left, and climb straight over a bulge to a ledge. Layback past the last bolt to finish, with anchors to the left. Originally a Calum Hudson project. Lindsay Main, 2000.
Michael Is Janet 17
Start 3-4 metres right of Hippocratic Oaf, on the right edge of the wall. Up the right-trending slabby groove following the crack, cross the overlap, clip the bolt and climb left and up (crux), then follow the weakness (tie off a knob, or run it out), trending left to finish. One bolt, sling, and wire. Anchor as for previous route. Calum Hudson, 1995.
Across the slabby area (which can be descended), this is the next wall around the arête, oriented more to the south.
Right Of Passage 20
About five metres around the arête, right of a slanting groove. Up the wall slightly leftward and through the roof. Two bolts, and a lowering bolt above to the right. Dave Shotwell, 2000.
* Groove Direct 24
Starts in the middle of the wall between Right Of Passage and Hebe Jebe. Climb the blocky steepening wall past three bolts, then move right to the hanging groove and climb the groove directly past the fourth bolt. There are several ways of gaining the groove. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Hebe Jebe 20
The harder of these two 20s. Chain link hangers mark this line. Start at the muehlenbeckia creeper and climb the wall through a small roof past three bolts. At the top of the main roof place wires or a small cam, and pull through to the left. One bolt above the roof, double bolt anchor to the left. Simon Courtois, 1998.
The shelf is an obvious ledge about 25 metres long, with a roof a few metres above the ledge running the entire length. Below the crag is an area of flax.
Think Pink 21
Starts at the very left end of the Shelf, just left of a corner and below an obvious roof. The route climbs the roof and the blunt arête with the pink lichen patches. Climb straight up to the second bolt, move left around the roof and on to the wall, and then back right to the third bolt on the arête (take care). Climb up onto easier ground to a single bolt anchor. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Top Shelf 19
Climbs the black wall at the left side of the shelf. Clip the first bolt and pull on to the wall, with nice climbing to the third bolt on the right. Easy moves (a bit lichenous) to the lowering bolt. Tony Burnell, 2001.
Shelf Life 20
Just right. Clip the first bolt and pull through the small roof on to the wall. Finish as for the previous route. Three bolts. Tony Burnell, 2001.
Bliss 26
Powerful climbing over the roof left of The Big C. Definitely a short sharp shock. Tony Burnell, 2001.
** The Big C 25
Starts under the big roof. Hard climbing to the third bolt over the lip. Move up and left to the fourth bolt. Climb more easily up the wall above to a hidden bolt. From the fifth bolt move up, then back right to the last bolt on Off The Shelf, and up to the same anchor. As the first bolt is low, a bouldering mat could be a good idea. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Off The Shelf 22
Start at the right-hand end of the shelf and boulder up the wall to a good hold and the first bolt. Using the pinch grip above pull over the bulge on to the wall. Continue easily up good rock to a single ring lower off. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
The Unclimbed Crack 19
Start immediately right of Off The Shelf, climbing the right side of the obvious crack through an initial bulge. At the hanging garden move right on to the steep wall and pull through on good holds to the anchors on Legends In The Baking. Good protection, but spaced and a bit odd on the upper wall. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Legends In The Baking 19
In the middle of the wall. Start with a steep bouldery sequence up through a small roof to the first bolt, or you can start right of the vege and move left above the roof. Then straight up past the second bolt and directly over a small roof with cool holds. Continue straight up the face past a wire placement with the last bolt out left. Five bolts and wire, anchor chains. Simon Courtois, 1998.
Trad Bash 2000 19
Up a steep wall following a vague right-trending crack with grass to a rest, then surmount a slight bulge and move left to the Legends anchors. Good protection. Lindsay Main, 2000.
Pinnacle Groove 19
Start just right up a smooth wall to a pedestal at five metres (no pro), and join the groove and crack above. Continue slightly rightward to finish up a steep crack. Move right to the anchor bolts for Whispers and Moans. Excellent rock and good moves, natural protection. Originally the initial wall only was climbed, and linked to Legends. Tony Burnell, 2000.
** Tres Estrellas De Oro 18
Steep thin face starting from a small ledge, following a discontinuous thin crack up to a two bolt anchor. Crux is getting past the second bolt, then good climbing follows. Five bolts, use Whispers And Moans anchors. Dave Shotwell, 1999.
Whispers And Moans 21
Arête with three bolts just right, on the right edge of the same face. From the second bolt you can continue straight up and climb the face left of the arete, or move right to the arete and climb slightly on the right. Four bolts, including one up high, and double bolt anchor. Simon Courtois, 1999.
Rib Eye 19
A slightly bold climb on the right side of the arête of Whispers And Moans. Climb the arête directly past reasonable holds and continue up the white lichen covered rock to stand on the pedestal. Wires can be placed in the short crack on the arête and a cam in the corner to the right, plus wires further up. Finish as for Whispers And Moans. Tony Burnell, 2000.
The corner has also been climbed (16/17).
Scrap Merchant 17
Start on the right side of the scrappy looking corner; and wander up the wall on reasonable rock tending rightward. Protected in the middle but the crack at the top is too loose to be useful. Tony Burnell, 2000
Spanish Inquisition 21
The ugly overhanging V-crack. Place gear low down and make committing moves to clip the bolt; then pull on to the ledge and climb the vague crack and wall left of the arete (with a few bits of gear behind loose flakes and the top bolt of Andele) to the Andele anchors. Not recommended. John Iseli, 2002.
Andele! 18
A right-facing corner, just right of an undercut arête. Hard off the ground to get to the first bolt, but there is also a wire placement (to the left) to protect the start. Then climb the corner, moving left to the arete below the last bolt if preferred. Four bolts and anchors. Simon Courtois, 2000.
Face-Off 21
Begins just left of Arriba!, moving left to the first bolt using a large side-pull. (Don't stand on the muehlenbeckia creeper). Climb the face on small holds leftward to the second bolt and up, finishing directly up the steep wall to the Andele! anchors on the left. Four bolts. John Iseli, 2001.
Cereal Killer 19
Start as for Face-Off but climb the groove through a bulge on good holds, continuing slightly left. Directly up over as couple of small bulges to the top, with anchor bolts in a boulder. Five bolts. Lindsay Main, 2002.
Arriba! 21
Climb the steep wall beside the right arête, with hard pulling though a bulge (crux). Four bolts and anchors. Dave Shotwell, 2000.
Get To Jugs 19
Five metres left of Tiger Wall is a short wall with a white lichenous prow above. This route follows edges and holds leading leftward past two bolts to ledges. The routes continues past two more bolts (one to the right) to anchors on a ledge above. Lindsay Main, 2002.
* Get To Grips 22
Face climbing on small horizontal seams past two bolts leads slightly right to a slopey ledge and a rest. Then step left to a small wall and up this to anchors. Four bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
Mis-spent Youth 14
Strenuous climbing through an undercut start (crux) leads to an easy-angled wide crack with good protection. Tim Wethey, 1977.
This is a dark-coloured south-facing wall, severely undercut on the left side. It has some great climbs, with the benefit of shade during warmer weather.
Situation Comedy 22
Start just right of Mis-spent Youth and climb straight up the steep wall over a small roof (good gear just above) and into a groove. At the top of the groove make a committing move move right to a rest below a small bulge. Continue up to a ledge and finish more easily to a single bolt. Good protection except at the move right, which is runout and a bit scary. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Pleasant Point 23
Start as for WAFTT. Climb to the first bolt but then go left and climb the insipient leftward trending crack past a second bolt to a good rest and a third bolt. Step right and climb the bulging face past the fourth bolt. Finish up easier ground to a single old bolt on top of the crag. Tony Burnell, 2000
*** Where Angels Fear To Tread 24
Three metres right of Mis-spent Youth, just left of a black streak. Prepared by Simon Middlemass eons ago, and climbed inadvertently. Hard start, then trend right on fingery holds. Five bolts, use Sunburst Finish anchors. Ico de Zwart, 2000.
Sunburst Finish 24
About four metres left of the Matterhorn boulder. Over the roof to a resting ledge. Finish up the steepest part of the black wall to a double bolt anchor. Five bolts tending right. Tony Burnell, 1999.
The Beer Hunter 25
Through a large roof moving left, then up the wall above. Five bolts, the first shared with the next route. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Speights Race 23
An overhanging corner with stepped roofs above the Matterhorn boulder. Pull on to the ledge and climb the corner; then move left to a small ledge. Tricky move to the last bolt, then up slightly left to finish at the lowest point. Unfortunately this is the last route on the crag to dry. Five bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Just Enough Speights 24
An eliminate line between American Dream and Speights Race, with good strenuous climbing. From the top of the ochre coloured block climb the initial wall past two bolts to the large roof. Go slightly right, then back left to the third bolt, which is out of sight around the nose on the left. Go straight up to a fourth bolt and a high step onto the steep head wall above. At the fifth bolt finish direct (steep and fingery), or alternatively above the fifth bolt move left to the top of the groove. Tony Burnell, 2000.
*** American Dream 23
Overhanging route left of the cave, partially prepared by Simon Courtois. Start at the yellow boulder and haul up over the roofs on good holds, moving slightly right to finish. Great cranking. Five bolts, the first three with hangers and the last two with chain links. The abseil chains have good access from the top, but tend to land you in the elderberry. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Three's Company 20
Start on top of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Pull over the roof (second bolt to the right) and up to a detached book-like flake. Finish up the easier groove above. Three bolts plus cams. Anchors to the right (for Southern Exposure) are not well placed for cleaning. Pere Logan, 2000.
*** Cat's Cradle 22
Start at the very right end of the yellow lichen-covered boulder. Cross the roof at its widest part and continue up a blocky looking wall with good holds to the final bolt and a tricky exit. Good fun - this is how sport climbing should be. Use the Southern Exposure anchors. The belayer should be tied to the elder tree to avoid being dragged into the nettles. Tony Burnell, 2000.
** Southern Exposure 25
Start down by the nettles below a large roof resembling an inverted staircase. Move easily up to clip the first and second bolts to the more strenuous, technical climbing and a good hold at the third bolt. Weave your way around on good holds past the next two bolts to exit through an obvious notch. Five bolts. Two bolt anchor with chains above. Tony Burnell, 2000.
** Storm Bringer 23
Start at the edge of the cave just left of Big Girls Blouse, below and right of the first bolt. Move diagonally up and left past the first bolt to the second. Climb straight up the wall to the roof, then move left, up and back right over the roof to finish. The anchor is on a block up in the grass about five metres back. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Big Girls Blouse 21
Just right, at the right edge of the overhangs. Start as for the next route, but move left (committing) and follow four bolts up the wall and through a small roof (either left or right of the fourth bolt) to a lowering bolt. There's also an abseil station above. Simon Courtois, 1998.
The Big Lebowski 20
At last, a 20 with bite - borderline 21. Direct route up the undercut arête. Committing moves with hard pulls to the second bolt, then easier to the top. Four bolts and a lowering bolt. Dave Shotwell, 1998.
Exotic Extraction 18
The right-facing corner a metre right of The Big Lebowski. A bold start on good rock to gain the crack is followed by easier climbing, with a steeper finish up the crack to TBL's anchors. Natural gear. John Iseli 2001.
** Bathroom Vanity 21
Impressive line finishing up the high prow. Step carefully up and right to the second bolt (run-out), then move leftward past the third bolt. The route steepens above the fourth bolt, with tricky moves on to the "Pizza-eating Ledge", left of the fifth bolt. Climb up and step right for the move to the chains at the lip. Seven bolts, and abseil chains. Simon Courtois, 1997.
** It's A Mystery To Me 21
About ten metres right is this nice route up a steepening wall and over a small bulge near the top. Four bolts, chain link anchors just over the lip. Andrew Buist, 2000.
* Latin Lover 21
In the centre of the brown wall is this direct route over a small roof and up a steep headwall. Hard pulling over the roof, then a rest before a steep exit on the upper wall. Four bolts and a mid-sized cam under the roof. Lower off a single bolt, or anchor at the next route's chains. Dave Shotwell, 1998.
Adventure Capitalist 21
Another one a couple of metres right. Straight-forward climbing until the wall steepens, with a slopey top out requiring a move to the right. Three bolts and a wire placement between the first and second bolts. Shares a double chain anchor with the next climb. Andrew Buist, 2000.
* What R U Reckon? 20
Two metres right is a line of six bolts (top one hidden) up a straightforward wall to a small roof and into a groove. Excellent climbing - easy to the fourth bolt, then technical moves to the top. Abseil anchors just left. Simon Courtois, 1998.
This is the section of cliff-line facing west, closest to the Mt Pleasant Spur Right Cliff, and extending along to a large cave inhabited by pigeons. The main focus for those seeking the harder routes.
Endless Summer 21
Staunch pulling over the roof and up the arete at the left end of The Alcove. Head left for a start, then clip the first bolt and move right to the arete and up. Climb the easy face to a steepening exit beside the bush, with surprisingly tricky moves on the slopers to top out. Five bolts and anchor rings. Lindsay Main, 2001.
Half Breed 20
Hard pulling to get through the roof, joining Endless Summer after the third bolt. Richard Kimberley, 2001.
* Tropical Storm 22
Fairly easy for the grade. Starts up the left-leading weakness through the roof on the left side of The Alcove. Follow three bolts leftward and then pull over the roof on good holds into a shallow groove with a bridging rest. Steepening finish, with the best holds leading left. Use the anchors of one of the adjacent routes. Six bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
Same Old Boring BS 22
Better than the name suggests. Six bolts. A central finish between the two earlier options to the Tropical Storm anchors. Andrew Buist, 2002.
It Is Pointless To Resist 22
Climb leftward through the roof as for the previous route, and then move right about two metres and climb a corner over a small roof, heading left to ring hanger anchors. Seven bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
Nor West Arch 26
Start as for Tropical Storm, but at the third bolt hand traverse rightward along the lip of the roof till you reach Skunk 2, and lower off its third bolt. Eight bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
It Is Pointless To Resist Direct Start 25
A direct start with two extra bolts, plus one from Nor West Arch. Andrew Buist, 2001.
Real Slim Shady 25
Starts directly in front of the large boulder. Straight-forward moves on good holds past the first bolt, followed by some large reaches on smallish holds through the overhang. Continue over the lip where the third bolt intersects with Nor West Arch. Finish up the arête above. Six bolts, with an optional small cam placement between fourth and fifth. Shares anchors with Skunk 2. Andrew Buist, 2000.
Deep Impact 27
Another powerful route climbing the roof to join Nor West Arch. Continue up either of the routes above to finish on top of the crag. Three bolts. Tony Burnell, 2001.
Skunk 2 21
Climb the right-leaning weakness past two bolts to the last bolt of the Nor West Arch traverse. Pull past it on the right to gain a rest in the crack above, which takes larger wires. Then move to the left crack and climb to the top of the pillar, with good cams. Steep climbing on good holds to finish, and move left to the anchors. Better than the name suggests. Double ring anchor. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
* A Dog's Life 23
Pull hard through the overhang past two bolts, then move rightward, clipping the third bolt from a good hold in the base of the groove to the left. Step right and power on up the prow, moving left to the fifth bolt and a positive exit. Five bolts and anchors. John Iseli, 2000.
Spatial Thing 24
Left finish from Panda Monium's third bolt. Six bolts in total. Use Panda Monium's anchors. Richard Kimberley, 2001.
* Panda Monium 24
Above an overgrown block is this route up a steeply overhanging wall featuring five older-style removable bolts. Simon Middlemass set it up, but Jeff did it not realising it was a first ascent. Jeff Shrimpton, 1993.
Yorkshire G(r)it 26
A line of right-trending bolts finishing up an overhanging bulge. Start two metres right of Panda Monium and move up; then traverse right along a ledge to the second bolt before moving left to a large undercling. Thin holds lead to a traverse past the third bolt and then up to bigger holds. After losing a hold, this route is harder than when first climbed. Shares anchors with the next route. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
Peak Plonkers 25
Close to YG but good independent climbing. Carefully pull over the roof above the track on funky holds. Clip the 2nd bolt of YG then crimp up the groove on its right. Then there are three more bolts and larger holds. Tony Ward-Holmes, 2001.
Hushpuppy Hitched 26
Climb from the alcove right of Peak Plonkers through the left side of a large roof. Slightly left after the fifth bolt under some large blocks to gain the anchors. Five bolts. Perry Logan, 2000.
Silence Of The Wombats 28
Climb past a large pod and over a flat roof to a headwall, tending left. Four bolts. Sefton Priestley, 2000.
* The Great White Wombat Hunt 27
Climbs the obvious big corner / roof. Traverse right under the roof, into the V niche, then trend left and up to chain anchors. Five bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
* The Zimmerframe Owner Strikes Back 27
Very steep route with glued holds two metres right. Climb past five bolts up a steeply overhanging wall to abseil chains. Originally a project by Matt Evrard. Richard Kimberley, 1999.
Wall Street Crumble 27
Another couple of metres right with even more glued holds. Good moves though. Above the bulge finish as for Mt Pleasant Butcher. Tony Ward-Holmes, Sept 2001.
*** Mt Pleasant Butcher 25
The last route through the roof. A short capped corner gives access to the roof. Go straight over the top bulge, clipping if you have strength to burn. Once at the headwall bolt traverse off directly right to the last move and anchors of Weet-bix Kids. Six bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Weet-bix Kids 23
Skirts the right side of the roof. Difficult start on slopey holds. Climb the shallow groove to a small roof, then left to gain a standing position on the ledge. Finish up the steep crumbly wall to a large ledge and lowering anchors. Five bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
* Liposuction 23
Deceptively steep wall just left of the cave. A nut or large wire can be used at the start. Straight up the wall to a good hold left of the third bolt, then rightward to the chains just above the lip on the right. Three bolts. Simon Middlemass, 1993.
Thorn Bird 25
Start 1½ metres right in a short corner. Hard moves onto a ledge, then shuffle left and clip the second bolt. Straight up the wall with a series of dynamic moves to finish on a ledge above and right of the Liposuction anchors at a single lowering bolt at the back of the ledge. Tony Burnell, 2000.
What Mad Pursuit 24
On the left side of the pigeon cave. Follow four bolts up an ever steepening wall and across the top roof on better holds than you might expect. Use Mutilation's anchors. Ico de Zwart, 2000.
** Wave Of Mutilation 22
On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up. Awesomely good according to Marcus. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
There's also a right finish which is a little harder (with Tony Burnell demonstrating at right).
Bird Lime 23
Starts below a shallow groove to the right of Wave Of Mutilation. Climb the groove past two bolts to the pigeon shit cave. From the left side of the cave swing out and right to a good hold and a bolt. Keep moving up and through the roof rightward past the final bolt to finish through a notch, finally moving over the top to a belay station. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell, 2001.
Noisy Neighbour 22
Start up U Haul to the first bolt, but move left to another bolt, then blast up the wall past two more bolts on improving holds. Can also be started by bouldering to the first bolt directly. Use the U-Haul anchors. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
* U Haul 22
Very steep route following a groove and crack line rightward, on the right side of the cave. Technically easy but you need a certain amount of strength. Three bolts and anchor bolts. Tony Burnell, 1999.
Disco Logic 23
The left side of the arête. Start slightly left, moving right past the second bolt and then up. Five bolts and two anchor rings. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
The New New Thing 22
The right-most route in the cave area, a couple of metres right of Disco Logic. Starts under an overhang on good crimpers. A long reach left of the first bolt leads to sustained climbing all the way to the top. Three bolts, shares Disco Logic's anchors. Andrew Buist, 2002.
To the right is a yellow wall with several routes, then a smaller cave. There are single anchor bolts with hangers, so to abseil go south a few metres to the anchors for Release The Wombats.
* Chocoholic 18
Just right of the arete. Start using an undercut hold and swing your feet to the right over the Muehlenbeckia creeper (so as not to trample on it) to the obvious foot-holds. Pleasant climbing follows the arete leftward on rock of improving quality. Starting on a small ledge in the back of the cave, followed by a traverse under the roof makes it a couple of grades harder. Four bolts, anchors as for Disco Logic. Andrew Buist, 2000.
Mercy 15
Start four metres right of the cave at the black streak, which is followed over the bulge and up the wall to the top. Good natural protection and one bolt anchor. Hugh Matthews, 1997.
No Quarter 17
Start just right of Mercy at the foot of steep black section of rock. Climb the black wall, then the yellow wall above trending slightly right. Poor protection in the middle of the route. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Easter Rising 16
In the centre of the yellow wall. Up to the ledge, then climb the wall past two bolts, trending right-ward past the ledges. Natural protection at the top and bolt anchors. Hugh Matthews, 1997.
Bury The Brass 17
Up the wall with limited natural gear in a faint crack, though it's better than you would expect from the ground. Hard start on the left of the small cave and then the climbing is straight-forward. Grant Piper, 2002.
God's Teeth 19
Two metres left of the corner. Start at the lowest point of the slab. Boulder on to the downward-pointing tooth, then follow breaks with easier climbing past two bolts slightly rightward to the top, using natural protection which is a little tricky to place. Bolt anchor to the right. Hugh Matthews, 1997.
Angel Wings 19
Left-facing corner at the edge of a small cave. Technical start past two bolts (watch the block) to a ledge with natural protection, then up to a steep exit past another bolt and through a notch. Loose at the top, don't grow wings. Anchor bolt. Hugh Matthews, 1997.
Sacrificial Leg 23
At the end of the wall swing rightward past two bolts to gain the wall above the cave. Up easy but loose rock to a difficult clip at the last bolt on a steepening exit. Bolted by Simon Courtois, but handed over to Tony after Simon hurt his knee. Tony Burnell, 2001.
The next four routes start at the next smaller cave and climb over it to gain the wall above.
Chocolate Tart 23
Starts about five metres right of Sacrificial Leg in the middle of the cave. Head left past the first and second bolts, straight up to the third and then up to a resting ledge. It's not over yet. Pull over a roof and climb a short wall, over a small roof, then up the top face to finish at Sacrificial Leg's anchor. Nice moves, though the rock is nerve-racking on the finish. Seven bolts. Andrew Buist, 2001.
* 10mm Full Metal Jacket 22
Climb gymnastically out of the small cave and at the third bolt move left, then continue straight up with awkward moves through the overhang. Six bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
Release The Wombats 21
Same start but continue straight up the wall. Tricky clip at the fourth bolt and a little run-out to the top. Four bolts, anchor rings a few metres back. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
** Adios Ingo 19
Pull through the roof a metre right and climb the wall, trending slightly right following four bolts. Anchor as for the previous route. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
Evasive Action 14
Crack at the right end of the cave. Avoids the action by climbing the left-facing corner with natural protection, to finish at the chains for Happy Ending. Hugh Matthews, 1997.
To the right of the small cave is a narrow wall with three routes...
* Happy Ending 22
Start up a small black wall with two bolts (tricky sequence) to gain a rest in the middle. Then straight up the face and over a small roof at the top. Six bolts and anchor rings. Patrick Stadie, 2000.
* Out Of Africa 21
Climb past a sapling and place wires in the right crack of the Africa shaped block. Trend left a little until you can reach rightward from big sloping holds and clip the first bolt. Then up the wall to a small pillar above the top bolt, where a wire can be placed to help with a committing move right to finish into the scoop. Three bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
*** Face Race 22
Direct line up a steepening orange wall just left of the arête, with five bolts. Committing moves to gain the bulge, followed by an easy finish. Chains well back from the top, to the right. Tony Burnell, 2000.
This is a section of cliff with a western aspect. It's sunny and very hot in the summer.
Nobody Expects The Spanish Inquisition 22
Start below a triangular roof. Move slightly right past a bulge at the first bolt to cross the roof, then up the wall climbing just right of the arête. At the last bolt move round towards Face Race, and then back right to the top of the bulge. There's a wire placement above. Five bolts. Patrick Stadie, 2000.
** Naughty But Nice 20
Start at a thin crack on the left side of a shallow scoop and pull through the bulge (wires for protection), then up the arête with three bolts. At the top move left to rest before placing a cam and pulling through the bulge on the right. The chains are slightly right, ideally placed for an abseil down the next route. You can also climb the corner to the left and clip the bolts at about 19. Simon Middlemass, 1993.
* Speak Hers Corner 19
A metre right. Bouldery moves at the first bolt, then nice climbing up a corner past four bolts and a cam to lowering chains or the Naughty But Nice anchors. Ngaio Colville, 1993.
Moss Side 22
About a metre right. Climb over a small overlap on finger-holds, with or without side-holds to the right. Then up the steepening wall (committing to the third bolt), with lichen on the top wall. Either move left to the Speak Hers Corner anchors, or climb the finish of The Rocket. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Manchunian Way 22
Climb the wall Just left of a black stain past two bolts and place a wire below the bulge. Move right slightly into the nicheand climb a bulge past two more bolts (strenuous) to a bush on a ledge. Finish as for The Rocket up a small wall above. Five bolts, and a wire. Tony Burnell, 2000.
The Rocket 19
Start from the pedestal behind the broadleaf a few metres right and blast up the wall (committing start to the first bolt - don't lose power). Climb the overhanging groove above, or the wall just left. A short wall above the grassy ledge has a fourth bolt. Bolt anchors on the ledge above. Good climbing but take care on the start. Hugh Matthews, 1997.
There's a grove of broadleaves and flaxes here, which should be avoided through to the next climb.
A Great Day For Up 20
Obvious crack with a roof near the top (crux). Pull into the crack from the right, then climb on the left. Natural protection and one bolt. Use the anchor rings to the right. Lindsay Main, 2000.
** If I Ran The Circus 21
Start from a large pocket and climb rightward through the roof to the first bolt, then up the orange wall with an overhanging finish on jugs. Three bolts and a wire placement in the crack to the right before the second. Lindsay Main, 2000.
Hey Seuss 22
An overhanging start through a roof leads to a bolt and a crack in a solid orange wall with natural gear. Harder than it looks. Two anchor rings. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
*Orange Roughy 22
Start as for Hey Seuss, moving right past the first bolt onto the orange wall. Haul on the crimpers past two more bolts, with an optional small wire to protect the finish. Three bolts. John Iseli, 2001.
12XU 21
Overhanging start with strenuous hauling through a triangular roof to the bolt (loose holds), then a section of crack with natural gear. Move left to the Hey Seuss anchors. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
* El Dorado 19
On the right wall of the broken arête, just left of the corner. Start below the fuchsia bush and pull up on jugs past three bolts. There are no anchors, which is a real pain as you have to scramble rightward to the single anchor bolt of Self Discipline. Joe Arts, 2000.
Self Discipline 19
The wall on the right side of the corner, through a small bulge (crux) and up a steep finish. Originally climbed directly at about 21; at this grade use the big jugs to the right. Two bolts and a single anchor bolt. Joe Arts, 2000.
Waltzing In The Hills 16
Climb the arête on the right side, using good natural protection from wires and cams. Joe Arts, 2000.
The next routes are about 10 metres further right above the caves. On the left is:
* Wiggling The Pinky 22
Start below the roof and follow the white streaks over small overlaps (crux), then slightly left on to the upper headwall to finish. Six bolts and anchors. Joe Arts, 2000.
Bit Of Rough 23
Immediately to the right. Steep start followed by easier climbing on the headwall. Bolted by Joe Arts, then handed over to Richard. Five bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2001.
** Pocket Rocket 23
Just right, with an undercut start behind the bushes. Climb up to the roof, move right and climb the crack (crux). Finish up the headwall above. Five bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
Bulk Order 24
Start just left of Primitive Man in a capped black groove. Clip the first bolt with difficulty or a stick. Climb to the left of the first two bolts before moving back right to the third. Pull up into a weakness and move round to the right up a short corner to the final roof. Then over this to easier climbing, finishing with a move out to the arête on the right. Lower off as for Primitive Man. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Primitive Man 23
Start between two caves in a tiny hanging groove and climb through two small roofs, each with a bolt. Wire protection in the groove. Simon Middlemass, 1993.
* Lateral Thinking 25
Climb to the third bolt of Total Eclipse, then move up and slightly left onto small holds on the face above the roof. Finish directly on steep, juggy ground above the face. Five bolts. Use the Primitive Man anchors to the left. John Iseli, 2002.
** Total Eclipse 24
Up the wall tending right and through a roof, then finish straight up. ?Five bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
** Bulk Delivery 23
Marked by bolts under a couple of roofs, which lead to a niche. Small crimpers to the underside of the first roof. Pull through the roofs with gymnastic moves into the groove. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Pump Action 25
Just to the right. Dynamic moves to leave the ground before moving rightward under the first roof. Move up to the top of the groove and step right. From this subsidiary corner head up and left to finishing holds and an abseil ring. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* No Siesta 24
A steep route three metres right of Pump Action. Small holds give way to big moves as the gradient increases. Move up slightly left to the obvious horizontal jug where a big move past the third bolt awaits. Then out right to jugs at the fourth bolt and rock over to a semi rest. Join the last moves of Pump Action here as you exit past a bolt on yet more steep ground to the PA anchors. Excellent thuggy moves. Five bolts total. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Psychotherapy 24
Starts in the back of the cave and climbs up the middle of the roof past four bolts. Don't miss the no hands rest! Climb right under the protruding block past the fifth bolt and exit up and right to the anchors. 5 bolts and ring anchors. Andrew Buist, 2001.
Finger Food 22
Hard pulling rightwards past the first bolt to good holds. Technical climbing past two more bolts to finish at the Flour Girl anchors. Three bolts. John Iseli, 2001.
Flour Girl 21
A climb in two parts on the right edge of the cave. Two bolts protect nice climbing up the wall left of the black streak to the ledge, at the end of the cave floor. Step up to the third bolt with chain-links and pull rightward past another bolt to easier ground. Continue up overhanging finish (easiest on the right) to a chain anchor. Dave Shotwell, 1999.
Ollie The Dead Cat 20
Natural protection. Start at the intermittent crack in the wall and climb up with wires, then a cam protects the move to the wide crack (crux) and up to a rest before easier climbing up the black crack above. Anchor at a single chain a few metres up the slope. Somewhat loose and dirty. John Birch, 1993.
*** You Beauty 23
Striking line up a black pillar. Killer moves all the way. Seven bolts mark the way with cruxes at the fourth and sixth bolts. Double bolt and chains anchors. The sixth bolt was added as an extra and marks the second crux "pinching the biscuit." Dave Shotwell, 1999.
You Beauty variation 24
Continue directly above the fourth bolt on You Beauty, passing two more bolts before rejoining You Beauty at the seventh bolt. Richard Kimberley, 2003.
Bluto 24
Sloping holds lure you onto a good undercut below the second bolt. Move up the crack and slightly left to a huge flat hold. Some face moves get you to a good hold just above the third bolt. Up and left onto a ledge shared with You Beauty. Move up and right on to the steep arête where the moves get easier after a committing start. Anchors as for You Beauty. Four bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Vertical Plummet 24
Starts two metres right of Bluto. Up the steep wall to the third bolt and head up the left side of the arete. Five bolts and ring anchors. Andrew Buist, 2002.
Dynamic Implications 25
Shares the same start as Vertical Plummet. From under the roof, climb right on small holds and up the arete, moving fully onto the face at the 4th bolt. Four bolts plus optionally the third bolt of Vertical Plummet. Shares anchor with previous climb. Andrew Buist, 2002.
Popeye 25
On a short steep wall beside the cabbage trees. Easily up to the first bolt, then hard climbing up to and past the third bolt before moving right to the anchor. Three bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
* Cabbage Patch Kids 24
The right hand route, with easy climbing to the second bolt. Hard moves past the third bolt, then move right to the anchor. Requires some figuring out - the grade is for on-sight. Three bolts. Tony Burnell, 2000.
To the right of the cabbage tree is a damp gully, which should be left alone for the vegetation. There are nine routes on the next wall.
Mostly Harmless 19
The fifth in the Hitchhiker's Guide trilogy. Start as for Pan Galactic and ascend leftward, passing the pigeon cave on the left. Then straight up and lower off from the anchors (don't abseil as it's hard to avoid the trees). Five bolts. Stu Allan, 2003.
* Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster 20
Six metres right of the cabbage trees, and two metres right of a vegetated corner. Straight-forward climbing on good holds past three bolts, climb left at the fourth bolt, then up and over the lip to an easy finish up the crack. Five bolts. Double ring anchor which is a good access point by abseil. Andrew Buist, 2000.
Salmonella Chicken 21
Start three metres right. Strenuous climbing on rock of improving quality leading to a climax at the fourth bolt. Finish up the crack as for the previous route. Four bolts and shared anchor. John Iseli, 2000.
Chooks Can Fly 21/22
Climb to the ledge above the third bolt of Salmonella Chicken, then move right to climb past two more bolts on the steep arete. Finish at the Salmonella Chicken anchors. John Iseli, 2002.
The right side of the wall is a nice red colour and there are three worthwhile short routes.
Frank The Vandal 17
Start in the corner on the left and at the first bolt move onto the wall. Five bolts and anchor rings. Stu Allan, 2003.
* Beast Of Burden 18
Awkward start in the centre of the wall, then trend left past three bolts, and slightly right to the fourth. Four bolts and anchor rings. John Iseli, 2000.
**Remittance Man 18
Climb Beast of Burden to the first bolt and then head up and veer right to the second bolt, finishing to the right of the nose. Four bolts and anchor rings. Richard Kimberley, 2003.
This is a lichenous area further right. On the left there is a descent route down a narrow chimney. The first route is three metres right of the chimney.
Excrement Eventuates 17
Three metres left of an overhanging arch is a left-leaning crack through a small bulge. Good natural protection with cam anchors at blocks. Lindsay Main, 1998.
A Taste Of Shit 16
Broken crack leading to a large capping roof on the left side of the buttress. Up black rock, over a stack of choss, finish up the wide crack left of the roof. Named in recognition of a superior route at Arapiles. Shit happens. Brent Davis, 1981.
Send It To Bromley 23
Directly up the face to the roof and exit right. Some dodgy rock! Five bolts. Richard Kimberley, 2001.
My Squelchy Life 23/24
From the third bolt traverse right and rest before a stimulating thrash through the roof. Five bolts. Richard Kimberly, 2001.
Excremental Exhaustion 20
Start at the right side of Shit Buttress, and climb the groove moving right at the top to enter a shallow groove system. Five bolts. Tony Burnell 2001
A fairly high, somewhat broken wall, with overhangs all along the lower part.
The Swagger 18
Start as for the next route and move past the first two bolts heading left to the grassy ramp/corner. When the angle relents move right over easy ground to the anchor bolts. You can abseil from the next set of anchors. Two bolts and natural protection. Joe Arts, 2000.
Rouseabouts 21
Start on the left wall of a corner below a roof and move left past a bolt. Clip the bolt above the bulge and move right on to the small wall between the roofs and pull through on to the wall; then up an easy section and finish directly on steepening ground. Anchors to the right. Seven bolts. Joe Arts, 2000.
* The Subterraneans 20
Start in the corner and climb to the roof; then move right to the arete (crux) and up. Continue up, passing the fourth bolt to the right. Straight up over two small bulges. Six bolts. Joe Arts, 2000.
Babes In Rice Rockets 21
An obvious line following a notch through a roof. Desperate clip at the first bolt; then easier climbing on the wall above, eventually heading leftward following the weakness to exit at a good crack. Three bolts and extensive natural protection. Joe Arts, 2000.
He Who Hesitates... 21
Is not going to get up this one. Start in the corner, or on the wall just to the left and pull through the roof past two close bolts on small holds. Move up carefully and clip a high third bolt, then cruise up the left side of the arete and around to the right of the top prow, finishing in the gully. Five bolts and double anchors. Lindsay Main, 2000.
Official Sanction 18
Start in the corner and clip the first bolt of HWH. Climb the overhanging intermittent crack heading slightly right on good jugs to easier ground; then tend left past the ice plants to finish in the top corner. One bolt and good natural protection. Lindsay Main, 2001.
Coventry Street 24/5
Starts a few metres left of Easy Street. Difficult moves over the initial roof. Climb straight up the face moving into the right facing corner finish straight up this to a belay on the glassy ledge above. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell 2001
Easy Street 24/5
Starts a few metres left of Lombard Street. Difficult moves over the initial roof. Climb straight up the face using the crack systems that split the face. Exit easily leftwards to the belay above Lombard Street. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell 2001
The next two routes are on the prow at the end of Spyglass Wall. The routes come together in the middle at a convenient rest spot. Combinations of these climbs provide two extra climbs as variants. Climbing the lower part of Illicit Treasure and stepping left at the last bolt to finish up easier climbing is a nice grade 20, while climbing the lower half of Lombard Street and the upper half of Illicit Treasure is 23.
* Lombard Street 23
Almost at the right end of Spyglass Wall. Starts at large hold just left of a low roof. Delicate moves up to the third bolt then traverse slightly right (crux) and up on small blocks past the fourth bolt. (Don't mistake the third bolt of Illicit Treasure for the fifth bolt of this climb where the two come together). Tend left past the fifth and sixth bolts, as climbing the finish directly may create another crux. Some route-finding is involved. Six bolts and shares Illicit Treasure's anchor. Andrew Buist, 2000.
* Illicit Treasure 21
Pleasant climbing on good rock just right of Lombard Street. Climb the arête on yellow lichen right of the first bolt and over a bulge to a rest. Excellent moves follow three more bolts on the right of the buttress, with the crux near the top. Five bolts, double ring anchor. John Iseli, 2000.
An area of short walls and buttresses of variable quality above the area of gorse. Hopefully the name of the wall will become inappropriate eventually.
Summer Sun Direct Start 17
Start off two good jugs below the first bolt followed by powerful moves, keeping left of the first bolt. Move back right at the second. Perry Buist, 2001.
Summer Sun 16
Short climb about eight metres right of Illicit Treasure on the left side of the vegetated corner. Start up Supervegeman and move left onto the face to clip the first bolt. Stay right after the third bolt where it's cleaner. Three bolts and ring anchors. Andrew Buist, 2001.
* Supervegeman 14
The easiest bolted climb of the crag A metre right up the vegetated corner with nice bridging all the way to the top. Originally soloed on sight, but now has three bolts. Shares the Summer Sun anchors. Andrew Buist, 2000.
The walls on either side of the corner can be climbed at 17/18.
Dazzle Man 17
Nice face climbing on good holds. Start two metres right of a vegetated corner. Rock over on to a big hold, and clip the first bolt. Continue up and place a large wire and/or a mid cam about half height, and up past the second bolt to finish. Ring bolt anchor with chain. Andrew Buist, 2000.
* Austin Powered 18
Start two metres right below a small roof. After clipping the first bolt, tend left over the lip (crux) to clip the second bolt. Easier climbing on nice holds past the next two bolts (don't miss the last bolt out right) then climb back left to the anchors. Four bolts and anchor rings (which were moved to reduce damage to the tree after it was mutilated by some pill-brain). Andrew Buist, 2000.
* Comfortably Numb 21
Starts about three metres right of Austin Powered on the left side of a corner. Take care of the vegetation - you can incorporate a two-metre boulder traverse to avoid stomping the Muehlenbeckia. Powerful moves on good holds up to the lip. Climb left at the second bolt then continue up past the third bolt and the last bolt of Austin Powered. Don't trash the vegetation at the bottom when lowering off. Andrew Buist, 2000.
Merlin The Unhappy Pig 18
Up a wide crack with natural protection, through bulges past a fern, then move right to the Stumpy anchors. Joe Arts, 2000.
Stumpy 21
Start a metre right and boulder rightward past the first bolt to a rest below the bulge. Move left past the second bolt to surmount the bulge. Easier climbing on the wall above. Three bolts, double ring anchor set back from the top. John Iseli, 2000.
Cracked Up 20
Boldly boulder up the wall to the left of Humpy Pumpy to a stance below the groove. Climb the crack above on natural gear and finish at the Stumpy anchors. John Iseli, 2001.
Humpy Pumpy 22
The steep face three metres right of Stumpy. Good moves through the overlaps, finishing leftwards after the third bolt up easy ground to the Stumpy anchors. Three bolts. John Iseli, 2000.
Squash The Dog 16
Wide crack with a roof, good natural gear. Move left to the Humpy Pumpy anchors. Joe Arts, 2002.
Spooky Two 22
Awkward moves on to a hanging slab. Up the arête on the left and back right into the crack/groove to finish. Three bolts. Tony Burnell, 2002.
Overhaul 23
Two metres right. Steep climbing on good holds following the arete on the right side of the face. Pass the third bolt on the right, moving left past the fourth. Four bolts, double ring anchor. John Iseli, 2002.
The next two routes are about 30 metres to the right, on a shady recessed wall.
*Gastronomic 21
Climb the left side of the solid grey wall, staying left of the native shrub at half height. Clip the third bolt from a large hand hold to the right, moving up and left of the bolt for an interesting climax. Three bolts, shares KTB's anchors. John Iseli 2001.
* Kikurangi Triple Blue 22
A compact looking little wall left of an obvious left-facing corner. Climb between the crack and the bolts on small crimps, staying right of a native shrub on a small ledge. Ring-hanger anchors. Richard Kimberley, 2000.
* Ara Takahanga 19
The obvious left-facing corner. Technical climbing directly up the corner, exiting via over the final bulge and up an easy chimney. There are belay stations either up and left or on the ledge on the right. Four bolts. Tony Burnell 2001.
Black & Blue 20
Start as for Ara Takahanga in the corner, and from the first bolt move out right onto the rib. Continue up and rightwards across the wall to a large hole; then finish up and right of the last bolt before stepping back left to a belay station on a ledge. Five bolts. Tony Burnell 2001.
* Black Jack 21
A few metres right this ascends the solid black wall. Boulder up steep rock to the 'dinner-plate' and pull hard to reach the ledge above the first bolt. Continue up past the large chicken head to easier climbing with natural gear (wires or small cams) on the wall above. Two bolts, double ring anchor slightly left. John Iseli, 2001.
* Noah's Ark 22
Starts just right of Black Jack. Hard pulling initially followed by easier climbing up past the boat shaped outline in the rock. Finishes up the corner or the bulging face to the right. Nicer than it looks. Five bolts. Andrew Buist, 2001.
Yellow Peril 25/6
Starts just right of Noah's Ark below a shallow right facing groove under the obvious yellow wall. Climb easily up the groove and move over a crumbly roof into a series of crumbly pockets and a good rest position on Noah's Ark. Swing out right into an exposed position and climb up, strenuously, into the steep groove under a large roof. Finish easily to the top. Seven bolts. Tony Burnell 2001.
Give The Dog A Phone 22
A few metres right is a line of six bolts through the overhangs. Move up to first bolt from right, then continue past second bolt to a balancy stance below the third. Easier out right, but instead launch up and left, and link a couple of pockets with wild moves. Continue with a long reach to a good hold right of final bolt. From there move left across the void to finish at a double anchor station. Very sequential. Simon Courtois, 2001.
The Price You Pay 21
Maybe 20. Start at the toe of a buttress and climb past the first bolt on crumbly rock. The wall steepens with a committing move to the last bolt, followed by a mantle on to the ledge. Double anchor bolt to the right. Four bolts. Simon Courtois, 2000.
It's Only Natural 20
Starts a metre further right and climb to a ledge, then place gear on the right and climb the wall to a rest below a broken crack. Steep and committing finish through the overhang. Anchor to the rings on TPYP to the left. Wires and cams. John Iseli, 2001.
Eight metres further right by the flax is:
Devious 22
Start as for Prowler, moving left at the third bolt. Hard pulls past the fourth bolt, then keep it together to the top. Five bolts, and a large wire/small cam is useful at the top. Use Prowler's anchors. John Iseli, 2001.
Prowler 20
Ascends the steep prow at the right end of the wall. Climb easily to the second bolt, moving right to gain the third bolt. Straight up the prow past two bolts on good holds. Five bolts, double ring anchors. John Iseli, 2001.
This is a distinctive wall about 50 metres right with a clump of flax and broadleaves at the base. The lower part of the wall is low-angled, but the upper part is steeply overhanging.
Rhythm Method 21
Easyish climbing with optional gear to the first bolt, then the wall gets steep and the holds get small. At the last bolt move left on to the rib and up (crux); then keep it together to the anchor bolts (optional mid-sized cam placement). Three bolts. Dave Shotwell, 2000.
** The Gimp 23
The prominent overhanging corner line in the middle of the wall. From below the broadleaf climb the easy wall on the right of a groove to a bolt at four metres. Move left across the groove and up past another bolt until the overhanging corner looms above. Swing up past three bolts, surmount the roof (crux), and place a good medium wire or small cam to protect the easy finish. Great varied climbing, but there is some alarmingly loose rock. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Wasssup? 22
Start a couple of metres right from behind the broadleaf tree. Up the steepening yellowish wall followed by a mantle onto the obvious ledge and exit left past the lichen covered rock. This climb shares Gimp's anchor so that climbers do not damage the broadleaf tree when lowering. Because of the position of the anchors, it is easiest clearing the gear on second and abseiling down. Six bolts. Andrew Buist, 2001.
Cookie Monster 20
Two metres right, this is the left of two grooves above an easy slab. Start up the slab until a bolt is reached at the start of the steep stuff. Move left into the overhanging groove and up past two more bolts, with a move right at the top. Double bolt anchor in a boulder four metres back. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Identity Crisis 20
Start just right of the trees, climbing a slab easily to the first bolt (shared with Cookie Monster), then take the right crack and groove past another bolt. Technical moves, then easy to the top, and left to the Cookie Monster anchors. Two bolts. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
Drama Queen 18
Three metres right. Climb a short face with a vague crack to the right, and up the wall on good holds to the grassy ledge. There's good gear if you can find it, plus some odd placements. From the ledge place gear in the crack and bridge leftward into the scoop (crux), with an easy finish. Natural protection, use the bolt anchors to the left. Marcus Thomas, 2000.
This is a small outcrop about 30-40 metres right of Flax Wall.
The Recliner 19
Easy start to high first bolt, then directly up to second bolt. Either finsh out left on slopey foothold or hand traverse/heelhook right and mantle (harder). Two bolts. Could use another bolt at the top. Single ring bolt anchor above finish. Simon Courtois, 2001.
Easy Rider 18
A short line with three bolts to a single bolt/ring anchor. (Alternatively you can pull over the top to a double bolt belay at the block above Lazy Boy). Climb up juggy black wall to the 1st bolt. Move past the grassy ledge on the right (second bolt) then up to third bolt. After clipping bolt move up and left to "a seat" on the block left of bolt. Feels like you are riding a "chopper". Luckily good holds over the lip above. Simon Courtois, 2001.
Softer Cushions 21/22
Boulder up left of the fixed piton, then surmount the remainder of the overhang with quiet confidence. (Don't fall). Clip second bolt of Easy Rider, then plant two size 2 cams and some big wires in the steep arching crack leading to a spectacular finish. Shares Lazy Boy anchors. Simon Courtois, 2002.
Lazy Boy 18
Line with three bolts on right side of face. Up steep start past high first bolt to grassy ledge. Move easily to upper face, then steep finish past the third bolt (easier to the right). Two bolt anchor on a block a few metres back. Simon Courtois, 2001.
About 20 metres to the right is a small wall above a grassy platform.
Curry Corner 18
A shallow broken groove, naturally protected with reasonable gear, trending slightly right to finish in a V-niche. Good anchors in cracked blocks. Marcus Thomas, 2003.
Joe's route 16
Five metres right, on the arete. A steep start, then scrappy climbing to a grassy gully. Loose and scummy. Joe Arts, 2003.
Scooping Booty 18
Around the corner and twelve metres right. Start up a thin crack with a tussock on black rock, moving left to gain the blocks on the left, and finish up the corner. Spaced protection. Anchor to a bolt. Joe Arts, 2003.
Revenge Of The Wedges 17
Overhanging blocky-looking line on black rock a metre right, just beside the large overhang. Worth-while climbing on excellent rock with good natural protection. Lindsay Main, 2003.
Cattlestop Cowboy 21
Short route up a stepped roof on the right side of the overhang, traversing leftward from a good hold and then up past the second bolt. Two bolts. Anchor to a bolt about five metres left. Marcus Thomas, 2003.
About 50 metres to the right is The Little Big Wall, with one climb, "Just A Short Juan" (four bolts). This is considered to be the last climb at Cattlestop Crag, the southward continuation of Britten Crags.